Arriving to the Medina in Fes from Chefchaouen, after a quick three hour bus ride, was an assault on the senses. The semi-orderly riot that we now have come to expect when heading into the old town (and normally the Medina) was a shock after realitively quiet Chefchaouen. The smell of smokey charred fish, sweet pastries, old rancid meat and kif is alot to deal with, while trying to eat yer dinner, is over powering.
Upon arrival into the Medina at Fés Molly had a little arguement with a not so friendly local in relation to the costing of his fine establishment. We did, however, find a lovely Riad (Moroccan guest house) soon later for the same price. Sleeping again was problematic as the local mosque was nearby and calls to prayer at 4:20am sharp. It could, I suppose, be likened to a drunk let loose with a loud speaker after a skinful of his favourite tipple !
We eventually found the tanneries for which Fés are famed for. They’re basically are 4ft wide earthen pots full of dye that pelts, from various animals cured with pidgeon shit, are dyed in. Fronting the tannery are a pleothra of leather shops peddeling the finished product. Very interesting seeming this process hasn’t changed for hundreds of years…if you can stand the stink!

The next day we sorted the train tickets to Rabat and headed up to the main square for the 12th century anniversary of Fes celebrations. Moroccan rap bands are something to behold…alot of ordinary Moroccans standing around scratching their heads. Very funny!

The train, (and the public transport for that matter), has been top notch. Runs on time and generally arrives early! AC and comfortable. We really have not had to have a long trip on either yet but forsee no problems. We only stayed in Rabat for one night as the Mauritanian Consulate was SUPPOSED to be in Casablanca. Rabat, for me, was largely unremarkable. Quite like Barcelona (with the amount of Spanish) and very cosmopolitan. Molly liked it and I as ever liked the beer. A swim was to be had on the beach but upon arrival Molly was deemed too white, western and lacking a “modest” bathing costume. So I frightened the locals with my brilliant farmers tan and side belly!

muni

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