It just gets more and more African sounding as we go further south…!

From Burkina Faso’s, gloriously named, Ouagadougou (waga doo goo) and Po to Ghana’s Bolgatanga and Kumasi. Ouaga was, for me, a strange town. We were there for the end of Ramadan which was a blessing and a curse. There was a huge amount of hussle and bussle right up to the last day fo Ramadan , buying food, goats chickens, and whatnot. Then, nothing. Nobody. And nothing going on. The whole city felt deserted apart from the odd street seller. The 3 days celebration at the end of Ramadan causing all Muslims to travel and be with their family. The city really felt ghost like ! We sorted out Ghana visas quickly and left Quaga within a couple of days. Po being next up for the chop.

Po is really just a transport town. Being the last stop before Ghana everything there feels transient. Everything and everybody coming and going, including us. BUT, we stayed for a few days as the people there were particularly cool and very welcoming. The day after arriving we ventured to a small town called Tiebele and in particular the Chiefs Palace. A village made of mud. Huts built in the shape of the figure “8” and housing all of the chiefs family, namely his many wives….Brave soul ! This place was really caught in time. Many hundreds of years old and, essentially, still there. An impressive place but full of a mysterious religion called “Animism”. Everything from the shape of the buildings to the colours and shapes painted on them meant something. Nothing was there by accident. Hard to describe really…!

Tiebele - Chiefs Palace

Tiebele - Chiefs Palace

Once we crossed the boarder into Ghana we hit Bolgatanga. Again, just another transport town but now, as Ghana is not as poor as Burkina, with money. A notable difference. We arranged a trip into Tongo and Bongo. More of the Tiebele huts but no where near as ornate. There was one massive difference with Tongo though, and that was the sacraficial tables and shrines. We were required to go to the shrine topless ….!!! Nedless to say Molly didn’t. I did (side belly and all) to witness various amounts of decaying meat, bone, rope ( used to haul the animals up the cliff face to be slaughtered and then offered to the spirits), skulls, bows and arrows and many burly black fellas (there for the hauling). It was an appaling place with a pungent smell of death. And in the middle of it all a man. Praying to the spirits who had just despatched a chicken. Then, me. The white man there to view it all. It was al very odd and the explanation didn’t help and it was given in pidgen english! After the viewing we moved out to the precipas of the shrine for Molly to take a pic. It look like something outta Lord of the Flies. A pic I will not post I’m afraid….

Tongo Offering

Tongo Offering

Tongo Chiefs Palace
Tongo Chiefs Palace

muni

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