Machinga, our new friend and Dhow captain, smiled broadly. He sat contented. On that day two whole years work had been completed. He was the proud owner of a brand new, and impressively large, Dhow. Sea trials were tomorrow. We agreed to go with him to Wasini Marine Park early the next morning.

The water invitingly clear. The urge for a swim barely controllable as we bobbed about. “We’re hunting for Dolphins”. The captain exclaimed. “Huh?!”, I said. Others and I aghast. “Hunting to look!”, he said. A cheeky smile. His headache now better after some donated paracetamol. The Dolphins obliged and smiled for the camera. Making us steer one way and surfacing another. Cheeky chappies! On the way snorkels and flippers were doled out. The anchor dropped and without hesitation I was afloat above the reef. The sheer abundance of strangely shaped fish, brandishing iridescent and luminous colours  of every kind, was matched only by the reef’s size and coral beauty.

Wasini ViewWasini Soup

After about five hundred meters we were told to head for the “beach”. I looked up. “What beach?!”. A finger pointed. There, in the middle of the ocean a barely visible sand bar. The only clue to its existence was the changing colour of the turquoise water. We snorkeled forward and then walking. There I was, with my Molly, on a beach ten foot square, in the middle of the ocean, surrounded by Dolphins in water of a temperature that warms your bones. This point in time, this place, doesn’t just warm your bones, it warms your soul. Just about as idyllic as you can get I suppose. We steamed back to Wasini Island and our residence at the Mpunguti Lodge devoured a hearty lunch and both slumbered, contented.

The next day, with a boat, five matatus and a taxi we had returned to Tiwi Beach. Our favourite spot on the Kenyan coast. Here we stayed for a few more nights eating Swahili food and soaking up the sun. This was to be our last few days by the ocean until Tanzania. Again the train was booked. Ali there to see us off from Mombasa. Back to Nairobi and continued quickly to Kisumu and the Ugandan border. (There had been some worrisome articles in the Kenyan papers about armed men on buses behaving like, well….Vikings.) So instead of heading for Turkana we had made it to Jinja in Uganda from Mombasa in about four days. Long hours spent on buses but we were safe and now feel like we are traveling again. From now on, each road traveled will be only in one direction.

Tiwi Beach CanoeTiwi Beach Room View