The Hairy Lemon, its namesake in Dublin, is on a tiny island in the Victoria Nile. The place came highly recommended by Pete & Bini. So, naturally, we went. A considerable amount of kayakers there. You know the type. “Dude!’ & “Woooah!” audible over the roar of the rapids. Knobs! One traded a kayak for a pig to be roasted the next day. It was and we ate. I got the trots. Nice one fellas. I hope you had a sphincter emergency in your kayaks. I should of known better.
The Hairy Lemon Dock

Still reeling from our safari fiasco we didn’t want to pay over the odds for something that we would be doing piecemeal anyway. Murchison Falls was too far out of the way and in the wrong direction. Queen Elizabeth National Park’s only budget option accommodation was closed and rafting was out as Molly was not up for it. We resolved to see it else where and just continue further south.

After catching up with Ivan and getting the care package from home we bounced around Kampala getting ourselves sorted for Rwanda. It was good to be back. Already oriented we were like old pro’s. Matatu here, boda boda there and at the best (at least in our humble opinion) Indian restaurant in town we were now regulars.

Back on the road again, proper. It feels good. Trundling along, suspension bottoming out as a road crater is hit to dodge another. Green green rolling hills, chocolate brown rivers swollen and bulge and trousers rolled up as it is now rainy season. We stopped over in Mbarara. Unremarkable…

Quietly, on a dug-out canoe, we crossed Lake Bunyonyi to Itambira Island. The community run Byoona Amagara our new home for the next few days. The silence, golden. Birdsong the only audible intrusion. Sunbirds, Weavers, Mousebirds and Ugandas national bird, the Crested Crane all in plain view. To me, this place is like a Scottish Loch. (Maybe this is why that fella thought he was king!) Our Geo-Dome room is an open faced, kind of thatched, banda. No doors. And bloody cold in the early morning but enjoyable all the same. Our views from the deck and open air shower just amazing.

Byoona Amagara Bed ViewByoona Amagara Deck ViewByoona Amagara Geo Dome

This was a good place to spend our remaining days in Uganda. Not doing the usual tourist track made it more of a travel experience rather than just ticking the boxes. They will be ticked later anyway. Rwanda up for the chop next and by all accounts we are in for a treat. We can’t wait…