Two Days in the Life – Part 2

Like zombies we fumbled around with the mozzie net to get packed. Standing outside the hotel waiting for a chapa (minibus) to Mocimboa da Praia three hours away. It arrived, we boarded and then we cruised around town looking for more passengers. Two hours later we passed our hotel to commence our three hour trip. In Mocimboa we bumped into our Chinese friends who had stayed the night there. Smiling and nodding. Pointing and clicking. “No Engrish!”. On foot now, trying to find a place to stay. Nothing….at least nothing without a cringe factor. We settled, after some hours of deliberation, into a Pensao. (cheapest of the cheap, paintless rooms only, not en-suite, shit hole – sorry folks). After knocks on the door and demands for money had ceased we managed to get some sleep.

When we woke we went in search of food. None, zilch, zero, nadah, nowt. Unless you like petrified squid. That day we had yoghurt for lunch and dinner. We tried to find transport out of this place, this pimple on Africa’s Arse, without much luck. Our only options were :
1. Stay an extra night here in the “Ritz” and get a seven hour bus to Pemba or 2. Leave at 3 A.M. the next morning and drive for fourteen hours to Nampula.
Hmmmmm. Decisions decisions. We toiled with both prospects. Neither option the minutest bit attractive over the other. While on reconnaissance for something edible I clocked a South African registered camper van outside a restaurant. Molly and I looked at each other with the same idea. We walked over to find three Portuguese fellas in the camper van. We enquired if they were heading south. We were delighted to find that indeed they were and, happily, they agreed to take us to Pemba early the next morning at no charge! Pedros, Jose and Baron. A Pilot, a Soldier (from the Mozambican Bush War 12 years ago) and Baron or “The Baron” as they called him. Both of us were ecstatic. What luck on Africa’s Pimply Arse! As we walked away we both agreed that if the fellas were happy with taking us we would continue to Nampula. Pemba now scuppered for obvious reasons.

1 Nampula2 Nampula3 Nampula

In the back of the camper van we made it to Nampula and were dropped at the very place where we planned on staying as the guys stay here also. Complexo Montes Nairucco is a very beautiful spot 12 kilometres outside of Nampula town. Hidden amongst inselbergs on a citrus and mango farm with its own private lake. Leafy and green. Breezy and tranquil with resident donkeys. Its an oasis in a transport, food and accommodation desert. We thanked the Portuguese fellas profusely over a few beers that night and retired to our tent early. We will stay here for a few nights to massage our beaten and bruised mojo’s, fill our bellies and go to the toilet for the first time since Tanzania! Welcome to Mozambique!

Now, who said we had it easy?