Category: Uganda


Well now that we leave Africa soon (Boo Hoo!) Muni & Molly’s African Oscars are now published.

The categories are : (drum roll please)

1. Best Accommadation / Hotel : Green Turtle Lodge, Dixcove, Ghana
2. Worst Accommadation / Hotel : Pensão Leeta, Mocimboa da Praia, Mozambique

3. Best Meal : La Colombe, Constainia, Cape Town, South Africa
4. Worst Meal : Cafe No Name, Arsi Negele, Ethiopia

5. Best Transport : CTM, Morocco
6. Worst Transport : Burundi

7. Friendliest People : Tied at Burkina Faso and Malawi
8. Unfriendliest People : White Namibians

9. Best Value : Ghana
10. Worst Value : Rwanda

And last but by no means least…

11. Best Beer : Primus 720ml, Burundi
12. Worst Beer : Laurentina Stout, Mozambique

And the most coveted award for biggest tosser in Africa goes to….

The fat, Afrikaner, make-up put on with a cement mixer, hair-do like a bulldog’s arse, manager of the Cat Nap Guest House in Springbok for her inability to take a booking 3 whole weeks in advance. Moan about the check in time, lie about her presence prior to us checking in and then only say that we had booked one night when two were requested. I hope you catch the clap from a toilet seat and you choke on some worm infested biltong again. Congratulations, your golden Oscar is in the post.

We’ve also added some additional categories for those that were worthy of such an acolade.

They are:

Toughest Day : 8th April 2009, Butare, Rwanda after visiting a genocide memorial. (I talk about it HERE)

Most adventerous moment: Boarding a tug boat to travel down Lake Tanganyika en-route to Kigoma, Tanzania

The 5 best highlights (in no particular order):

1. Getting up close and personal with 5 Silverbacks in Parc National de Volcans, Rwanda
2. Being pamered in Madikwe Safari Lodge, South Africa
3. Juming out of a dhow, after spotting Dolphins, onto the best beach in Africa. Praia de Chocas, Mozambique
4. Standing on the precipace of the plateau in Dogon Country, Mali
5. Giggling at the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian Ocean’s at the southern most tip of Africa

Muni & Molly

Well now that we leave East Africa tomorrow Muni & Molly’s East African Oscars are now published.

The categories are : (drum roll please)…

1. Best Hotel : Hottel Panari, Nairobi, Kenya
2. Worst Hotel : Hotel No Name Arsi Negele, Ethiopia

3. Best Meal : All of the meals in Masala Chatt, Kampala, Uganda
4. Worst Meal : Cafe No Name, Arsi Negele, Ethiopia

5. Best Transport : Rwanda
6. Worst Transport : Burundi & the worst road in Africa from Dar es Salaam to Kilwa Masoko

7. Friendliest People : Kenyans
8. Not so Friendly People : None really in East Africa : Well done !

9. Best Value : Uganda
10. Worst Value : Rwanda

And last but by no means least…

11. Best Beer : Primus 720ml, Burundi.
12. Worst Beer : Not one – just warm beer !

And the most coveted award for biggest tosser goes to….

Mr. Matatu Driver in Kampala for laughing at the customers and ignoring their pleas to stop. To the point were this humble writer had to grab the driver of a moving vehicle in a very agressive way causing many screams and general mayhem in the process!!! I hope you are plagued by punctures the rest of your days.



The Hairy Lemon, its namesake in Dublin, is on a tiny island in the Victoria Nile. The place came highly recommended by Pete & Bini. So, naturally, we went. A considerable amount of kayakers there. You know the type. “Dude!’ & “Woooah!” audible over the roar of the rapids. Knobs! One traded a kayak for a pig to be roasted the next day. It was and we ate. I got the trots. Nice one fellas. I hope you had a sphincter emergency in your kayaks. I should of known better.
The Hairy Lemon Dock

Still reeling from our safari fiasco we didn’t want to pay over the odds for something that we would be doing piecemeal anyway. Murchison Falls was too far out of the way and in the wrong direction. Queen Elizabeth National Park’s only budget option accommodation was closed and rafting was out as Molly was not up for it. We resolved to see it else where and just continue further south.

After catching up with Ivan and getting the care package from home we bounced around Kampala getting ourselves sorted for Rwanda. It was good to be back. Already oriented we were like old pro’s. Matatu here, boda boda there and at the best (at least in our humble opinion) Indian restaurant in town we were now regulars.

Back on the road again, proper. It feels good. Trundling along, suspension bottoming out as a road crater is hit to dodge another. Green green rolling hills, chocolate brown rivers swollen and bulge and trousers rolled up as it is now rainy season. We stopped over in Mbarara. Unremarkable…

Quietly, on a dug-out canoe, we crossed Lake Bunyonyi to Itambira Island. The community run Byoona Amagara our new home for the next few days. The silence, golden. Birdsong the only audible intrusion. Sunbirds, Weavers, Mousebirds and Ugandas national bird, the Crested Crane all in plain view. To me, this place is like a Scottish Loch. (Maybe this is why that fella thought he was king!) Our Geo-Dome room is an open faced, kind of thatched, banda. No doors. And bloody cold in the early morning but enjoyable all the same. Our views from the deck and open air shower just amazing.

Byoona Amagara Bed ViewByoona Amagara Deck ViewByoona Amagara Geo Dome

This was a good place to spend our remaining days in Uganda. Not doing the usual tourist track made it more of a travel experience rather than just ticking the boxes. They will be ticked later anyway. Rwanda up for the chop next and by all accounts we are in for a treat. We can’t wait…


Chagulani & Nambazira

Yes, yes my dears we are alive…!!! We are in deepest darkest Africa now and Uganda is…well…not quite the perfect 10 I hoped for. On the outset the place was about as mysterious as Africa can get. Uganda. Land of the Head Hunters, Gorillas, Lake Victoria, Idi Amin, The LRA and its current news worthiness due to the border with the D.R. Congo.

Kampala, (named after the ubiquitus Impala) has its airport 40km away in Entebbe. Well done fellas! Makes my life really easy. Its dusty, smelly, overcrowded with people, positively dire traffic congestion – the worst I’ve ever seen and the best Indian food outside of India. We caught up with Carragh and Ivan, friends of Jeanne’s. Ivan being a Ugandan chappie and a pleasure to go out for a “few” beers with. (It was he who gave us the Ugandan names of the post. Mine being Buffalo and Jeanne’s being the bird that sits on the Buffalo’s back.) We like them. I positively enjoyed their company in the first few days in Kampala. They were a great help to get oriented and a huge source of advise. Boda Boda’s are far more enjoyable after a few beers!

Off to Fort Portal (Port Fortal) to volunteer with Camara and see some Chimps. Camara Uganda was interesting. Lots to do out there but little time. We did however roll out 2 new Ubuntu servers in 3 days – not bad! The guys out there were most welcoming. On to Kibale National Park to see the Chimps. ehhh NO!!! The camp site was (sorry kids) SHITE. We decided not to stay as ammenities were awful at best I was gutted as we left knowing the Chimps and Forest Elephants were in the park I was walking out of. Upsetting as the harder we try to see wildlife the harder it gets. In dismay we hitched to the crater lakes 30km north west of us and stayed over night in a basic Banda. We were thrilled to see Black & White Colobus, Red Colobus and Vervet Monyeys and loads of birds we’d not seen before.

It was Ssese Islands on Lake Victoria for Xmas. It was very nice. Brand new Banda, white sands, average food, COLD BEER, and good company – Rick & Bonnie. We stayed there after getting the ferry out for 5 days then headed out to an even more remote place – Banda Island. I cant really describe Banda except to say that IT’S FULL OF HIPPIE NUTTERS including the OWNER. Various things being passed to the left including the Kenyan Mzungu owner’s Banana Juice – Banana Moonshine. 2 days was enough in a tent there before my sanity started to wane.


Uganda has been strange for me. The people are the happiest and most contented I’ve ever seen. But, try and get them to do something… It’s like trying to get a drunk Hippo to paint. We return to Uganda in March or so and then I can surmise further. It would be unfair to give it full judgment now so watch this space.

Tomorrow,we head back to Mali for 5 weeks,  Peter & Sabina and the Festivals. I can’t wait…

muni – Chagulani