Tag Archive: Ghana

I just had to do this as it would give those who are interested an idea on our take so far !!!

The categories are : ( drum roll please )

1. Worst Hotel : Baobolong Camp, Jangjangburreh, The Gambia.
2. Best Hotel : Green Turtle Lodge, Ghana.

3. Worst Meal : Fulladu, Basse Santa Su, The Gambia. (nothing but bananas sir..sorry!)
4. Best Meal : Clay Oven, Fajara, the Gambia. Yummmmm!!!

5. Worst Transport : Bani Transport (for pissy seats !)
6. Best Transport : CTM, Morocco.

7. Friendliest People : Burkina Faso.
8. Unfriendliest People : Mauritania.

9. Best Value : Ghana
10. Worst Value : Mali

And last but by no means least…

11. Best Beer : Gazelle
12. Worst Beer : not one – just warm beer !

And the most coveted award for biggest tosser goes to….. Everybody’s loveable friend….( and a taxi driver )….

Mr. Taxi Driver in Takoradi, Ghana.
( for changing the agreed price and taunting the customers afterwards. I hope you are plagued by punctures the rest of your days. )


Where are you going ?

It seems that the national anthem here is : “Where are you going ?” And for some reason everyone asks it the same way. Sometimes I say Nairobi….just for the laugh. Especially to taxi drivers. (you can see them calculating the cost mentally and seeing huge dollar signs). For a month now I’ve been asked “where are you going ?” and have come to really like Ghana (I’m not going, I’m staying !). The people are really nice and very helpful. Traveling here has been easy enough but disappointing at times. Mole National Park was scuppered as transport there could not be arranged. Nor could we get to another park, Bui, for the same animal adventures. So, disappointed we headed for the coast. Knowing it would be cooler and breezy at least.

We eventually hit The Green Turtle Lodge 10km past Dixcove on the Gold Coast. A simply stunning hideout on the beach that boasted endangered Green & Ridleys Turtles laying eggs on the beach at night. And, of course, a hike down the beach was arranged. The Turtles obliged, thankfully! Very cool. That was the night we met Peter and Sabina. A craaaazy couple form Austria overlanding from Austria down the east coast and back up the west coast in their 322 Merc 4×4 truck (see pic). I was positively GREEN with envy and at any given chance was poking around the truck asking Peter a barrage of questions. We originally booked for 3 nights and ended up staying for 9 (especially since we could pick coconuts right from the trees and have them for lunch !!!). Sabina & Peter lending us their tent at one stage to sleep in on the white sands. We really enjoyed their company, and, from what we could tell, they ours. Many beers were had on the beach and they even cooked me snake fish and king fish for me birthday dinner. Top buzz….or as Peter’d say ” Big Fun!”.

They then very kindly offered to go with us up to Ankasa N.P. (previously cancelled trip) and camp in the bush in the hope of seeing some Forest Elephants and or Chimps. We went, riding high in the Merc cab waving to the local chappies along the way (where are you going ?) and I was loving every minute of it. Two weeks we basically spent together and we enjoyed every minute with them. So much so we are catching up again in Timbuktu for the Festival in the Desert in January. AND 4x4ing with the Merc into the desert !!!

I really feel we have finished on a high here especially overlanding with the Austrian flutes. They made the last few weeks here unforgettable. Nice one fellas, and see you in Timbuktu !


Ouaga to Bolga

It just gets more and more African sounding as we go further south…!

From Burkina Faso’s, gloriously named, Ouagadougou (waga doo goo) and Po to Ghana’s Bolgatanga and Kumasi. Ouaga was, for me, a strange town. We were there for the end of Ramadan which was a blessing and a curse. There was a huge amount of hussle and bussle right up to the last day fo Ramadan , buying food, goats chickens, and whatnot. Then, nothing. Nobody. And nothing going on. The whole city felt deserted apart from the odd street seller. The 3 days celebration at the end of Ramadan causing all Muslims to travel and be with their family. The city really felt ghost like ! We sorted out Ghana visas quickly and left Quaga within a couple of days. Po being next up for the chop.

Po is really just a transport town. Being the last stop before Ghana everything there feels transient. Everything and everybody coming and going, including us. BUT, we stayed for a few days as the people there were particularly cool and very welcoming. The day after arriving we ventured to a small town called Tiebele and in particular the Chiefs Palace. A village made of mud. Huts built in the shape of the figure “8” and housing all of the chiefs family, namely his many wives….Brave soul ! This place was really caught in time. Many hundreds of years old and, essentially, still there. An impressive place but full of a mysterious religion called “Animism”. Everything from the shape of the buildings to the colours and shapes painted on them meant something. Nothing was there by accident. Hard to describe really…!

Tiebele - Chiefs Palace

Tiebele - Chiefs Palace

Once we crossed the boarder into Ghana we hit Bolgatanga. Again, just another transport town but now, as Ghana is not as poor as Burkina, with money. A notable difference. We arranged a trip into Tongo and Bongo. More of the Tiebele huts but no where near as ornate. There was one massive difference with Tongo though, and that was the sacraficial tables and shrines. We were required to go to the shrine topless ….!!! Nedless to say Molly didn’t. I did (side belly and all) to witness various amounts of decaying meat, bone, rope ( used to haul the animals up the cliff face to be slaughtered and then offered to the spirits), skulls, bows and arrows and many burly black fellas (there for the hauling). It was an appaling place with a pungent smell of death. And in the middle of it all a man. Praying to the spirits who had just despatched a chicken. Then, me. The white man there to view it all. It was al very odd and the explanation didn’t help and it was given in pidgen english! After the viewing we moved out to the precipas of the shrine for Molly to take a pic. It look like something outta Lord of the Flies. A pic I will not post I’m afraid….

Tongo Offering

Tongo Offering

Tongo Chiefs Palace
Tongo Chiefs Palace